Category Archives: United States

Kauai, Hawaii

Finally ready to plan a Hawaiian vacation? The beautiful islands are high–very high–on most wish lists. But each island has its own personality, so think carefully before deciding which one to visit. The volcanic Big Island. The lively cities of Oahu. Or the peaceful solitude of Lanai. All excellent choices, really. But let’s start with the dramatic scenery of Kauai.

Photo: © Solodogs | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

The oldest of the major Hawaiian islands, Kauai has white-sand beaches, steep cliffs, lush rainforests, and deep canyons. Those who love outdoor activities–especially the more adventurous ones–will feel right at home on the Garden Isle. Hike the Hanakapi`ai Trail to the powerful waterfall or the Kuilau Ridge Trail for views of Mount Waialeale. Bike from the rim of Waimea Canyon down to the Pacific. Kayak the Wailua River to the lava-rock Fern Grotto. Ride a helicopter along the cliffs of the Nā Pali Coast. Or explore caves and lava tubes while snorkeling.

Need a break? The southern coast receives less rain and more sunshine. Plus you’ll find some of the best beaches on the island here. Visit Moir Gardens and their rare cacti. Hike the coastal Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail from Shipwreck Beach to Maha’ulepu Beach. Try to spot sea turtles, whales, and endangered monk seals along the way. Watch water being forced up a lava tube–up to 50 feet in the air–at Spouting Horn. Snorkel with Black Tangs, angelfish, and Striped Damsels near the reef at Nukumoi Point. And hang out on Poipu Beach, where you can boogie board, learn to surf, or just relax in the sun.

Photo: Koa Kea Hotel & Resort

A sunset dinner is just steps away from Poipu Beach. The manor house of Hawaii’s first sugar plantation is now Plantation Gardens, where you’ll dine on verandas overlooking orchids and red ti plants. Tiki torches flicker as you sip a hibiscus cooler and eat seafood lau lau. Save room for local Lilikoi cheesecake. You can walk it off as you stroll down the beach from the restaurant to your hotel , the Koa Kea, where you have a Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage scheduled in the morning. After biking, flying, and paddling your way around Kauai, you deserve to be pampered.

Louisville, Kentucky

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This year’s Kentucky Derby is over, so now is the time to visit Derby City. At the beginning of May, there’s maddening traffic between overbooked hotels and the TwinSpires. And, by the end of the weekend, the city runs out of fresh mint and Southern hospitality is in short supply. Given a month to recover from the craziness though, Louisville has swept off the welcoming mat. Cocktails will be ready upon your arrival.

Photo: 21c Museum Hotel Louisville

Surrounded by pastures filled with bluegrass and the Ohio River, Kentucky’s largest city is known for its elegant Victorian buildings. But you aren’t staying in one. You’re staying with the Red Penguins in the hip boutique 21c Museum Hotel. Actually, it’s more than just a hotel. Old tobacco and bourbon warehouses have been converted into a hotel, a contemporary art museum, and a restaurant right in the middle of Museum Row. Stay in a normal room–with original brick walls, pewter mint julep cups, and rubber ducks–or perhaps in an installation. A little too much? The museum is always open and always free, for everyone. Check out the light box installation, the 21c Pip Mobile, and life-sized seagulls. Those penguins are everywhere.

Photo: Censusdata at en.wikipedia

Just a short walk from the hotel, see how baseball bats are made at the Louisville Slugger Museum. Watch iconic boxing matches at the Muhammad Ali Center. Stroll along the Riverwalk–Indiana is across the water. Or go out on the water, on the Belle of Louisville, the oldest operating Mississippi River steamboat. A little farther away, visit Churchill Downs and bet on less important races. Or spend the afternoon touring and tasting at bourbon distilleries. See how barrels are made at Jim Beam and how they’re stored for aging at Heaven Hill. Enjoy the red roses at Four Roses and the rolling hills at Maker’s Mark. Just don’t miss Woodford Reserve, the oldest and the smallest distillery.

If you aren’t sick of bourbon by the time you return to 21c, sample a 12-year-old flight at Proof on Main or coat your stomach with bourbon-spiked food. Unless it’s time to switch it up. There may even be mint now to make you one of those famous juleps.

Glacier National Park, Montana

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It’s June. And that means drivers in Montana are eagerly waiting for the gates of Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park to open. Whether you drive east to west or west to east, it’s been one of the most scenic drives in the United States since the 1930s. The narrow, two-lane road passes by crystal lakes, deep gorges, thundering waterfalls, massive glaciers, and snow-capped mountains. Of course, there are plenty of pull-off spots and animal sightings along the way.

Winter weather–sometimes up to 80 feet of snow–makes this 50-mile road off-limits most of the year. When the temperature starts to warm up in March, the snowplows arrive. It still takes months to clear the huge drifts of snow though, so the road can’t open until June. But when it does, locals and visitors jump in their cars or on the red, open-air jammer buses to hit the road. Don’t forget to pack a picnic lunch to eat along the way.

Photo: © Hipproductions | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Driving from east to west, you’ll start in St. Mary and drive along the north shore of trout-filled St. Mary Lake. A short trail leads to St. Mary Falls and views of Virginia Falls across the lake. Drive through forests and flatlands where black bears, elk, and great horned owls roam. Stop at Jackson Glacier Overlook, the best viewing point of the shrinking glacier. Continue through windy, mountainous Siyeh Bend. And approach Logan Pass, the highest point on the road, on the Continental Divide. Hike the Highline Trail, through the wildflower-filled Garden Wall. Watch out for mountain goats, grizzly bears, and moose.

Back on the road, look out over Heavens Peak from the Loop. You’ll descend by Bird Woman Falls Overlook and the glacier-formed McDonald Valley, before taking a sharp turn near McDonald Creek. Stop at Avalanche Creek to walk along the short Trail of the Cedars. At Johns Lake Pullout, walk through red cedars to Johns Lake, another popular spot for moose . And finally make your way along the southern shore of Lake McDonald, the largest lake in Glacier National Park. For many, the journey ends here, but with lodges and camping sites throughout the area, you can still enjoy Going-to-the-Sun Road after the day’s traffic passes by.

Just be sure to arrive by September. The gates close for the winter by the beginning of October.

Bar Harbor, Maine

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Photo: West Street Hotel

Craving blueberries, lobsters, and real ice cream? You’re going to have to work for them on Mount Desert Island in northeastern Maine. The island may be known for the idyllic town of Bar Harbor–so picturesque that it was originally called Eden–but it’s also the home of Acadia National Park. So you’ll have to hike, bike, or be boring and drive through the oldest national park east of the Mississippi River to enjoy your summertime treats. Just try not to enjoy yourself too much in the process.

There are trails for everyone in the granite peaks of Acadia. The easy Ocean Trail along the waterfront begins at Sand Beach, winds past Thunder Hole, and ends up at Otter Point. Gorham Mountain, one of the most popular trails, has spectacular ocean views and wild blueberries along the trail. And the Precipice Trail, for experts only, is a vertical climb up the face of Champlain Mountain. Bike the historic carriage roads–over stone bridges and past waterfalls–in the heart of the park. Or drive Park Loop Road to the top of Cadillac Mountain, stopping at all the pullover points along the way.

Photo: West Street Hotel

Once you’ve had your fill of the view–or are at least ready for a different vantage point–descend into Bar Harbor. The rooftop pool at the West Street Hotel looks out over Frenchman Bay and the outer islands. Seems like the ideal place to watch the sun rise in the morning, if you can’t drag yourself back up Cadillac Mountain in time. The hotel has nautical decor, though not in the cheesy way. More like whitewashed walls, white and blue linens, and pops of red. Balconies overlook the harbor, where at low tide, a sand bar connects the town to Bar Island. And the bathrooms have heated floors. It may be summer, but you’re still in Maine.

If you’re stomach starts to grumble, it’s probably because you can smell the food at Paddy’s Irish Pub downstairs. Eat smoked seafood chowder and a lobster salad–finally, lobster–with a Bar Harbor True Blue Ale. If the beer’s subtle blueberry flavor isn’t enough, there’s always blueberry pie for dessert. And then get out on the water. Sea kayak toward the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. Search for humpback, finback, and minke whales on a whale watch. Or take a sunset cruise on the Margaret Todd. Back on dry land, wander into Carmen Verandah or Lompoc Cafe for live music. Just don’t forget to stop at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream at the end of the night. Your toughest decision of the day will be deciding between Maine sea salt caramel and blueberry basil.

Sedona, Arizona

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Some go for the galleries. Others seek the healing powers. And a few are searching for UFOs. But everyone who travels to Sedona ends up captivated by the magic hour. Twice a day–at sunrise and sunset–all eyes turn toward the blazing red rocks. And this little city in central Arizona becomes one of the most beautiful places in the United States.

The day begins early in Sedona. Grab a cup of coffee and head to the hot air balloon launch site. You’ll start to rise with the sun. Drift over the rocks and the canyons as the dark shadows recede. Enjoy the crisp air before the temperature starts to soar. You’ll be wide awake as you head back into town. Stop at the Coffee Pot for omelets–there are 101 options–on the patio. And decide if you’ll spend the rest of the day exploring by foot, bike, or jeep.

Hike the Airport Loop Trail for views of Bell Rock, Coffee Pot Rock, and Cathedral Rock. Head into the forest near deep Oak Creek Canyon or the vortex at Boynton Canyon. Search for rock art at ancient ruins. Run to Broken Arrow. Climb the steep trail to Devils Bridge. The scent of juniper, eventually mixed with sweat, follows wherever you go. Cool off at Slide Rock State Park, where a natural water slide formed in the riverbed. Or in Oak Creek, as you fish for rainbow trout.

Late afternoon is time for a hot stone massage or shower and a quick nap. Things slow down during the hottest part of the day anyway. Browse the Southwest landscapes at the galleries–there are more than 100 in town. Wander around the Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village for Native American jewelry, healing crystals, or Western clothing that you’ll never wear when you return home. Go to the Barking Frog for prickly pear margaritas and white shrimp tamales. Oaxaca for enchiladas and a tequila tasting. Or the Heartline Cafe for pulled pork and polenta with Zinfandel from Arizona. Yes, wine from Arizona.

Don’t miss the sunset though. The colors change quickly at Overlook Point. Rock formations turn from mauve to crimson to gold to purple, and eventually black. And that’s when the stargazing begins. And if you stare at the clear sky long enough, the colors will begin to change yet again.

Newport, Rhode Island

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Memorial Day. Time to honor those who have served the country, to enjoy a long weekend, and for New England to awaken from its winter slumber. It’s taken long enough. Understandably though, since there were still snowflakes falling in April. But the end of May is the official start of summer. It’s time to wear white, eat ice cream, and go to the beach. It’s time to head to the Ocean State.

Photo: Forty 1 North

Rhode Island may be the smallest state in the US, but it has more than 400 miles of shoreline. And Newport takes full advantage of its oceanfront position. Known for yachting and summer “cottages,” Newport used to be the summer playground of the wealthy. In the mid 19th century, financiers and rich industrialists built European-style palaces along Bellevue Avenue. The 3.5 mile Cliff Walk–enjoy the natural scenery and snoop on the mansions–is now one of the city’s most popular attractions.

Yet Newport is not stuck in the past. The City by the Sea is also popular for its art galleries, music festivals, water sports, and locally sourced restaurants. Learn to sail with Sail Newport or ride the waves with Rhody Surf. Rent bikes to explore Ocean Drive and Brenton Point State Park. Grab hot dogs and lemonade, and watch the waves crash at Gooseberry Beach. Do a tour–and tasting, of course–at Newport Distilling or the Newport Storm Brewery. Buy spices at the Newport Spice Company and tea-infused truffles at La Maison de Coco. Drink a sunset cocktail overlooking the wharfs at Fluke.

Photo: Forty 1 North

And return to your hip hotel on Narragansett Bay. Forty 1 North may look like a classic New England inn on the outside, but the interior is completely modern. The rooms have gas fireplaces, wet bars, and iPads. Breathe in the salt air from your balcony overlooking the hotel’s marina. Relax in a soaking tub for two. Eat at one of their two restaurants. The Grill has dockside fine dining. Northeast oysters, littleneck clams, and dayboat scallops. Or go more casual at Christie’s, with steamers, fish and chips, and an adult root beer float. And then walk through town to check out artwork at the monthly Gallery Night or listen to jazz at the Newport Blues Cafe. It’s summer, after all, no need to turn in early.

Austin, Texas

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Heading to Austin? You’re probably going for a festival. This year’s South by Southwest may be over, but Texas’ capital always seems to be celebrating something. Music, film, food and wine, books, boats, flowers, and even chocolate. This quirky–hey, they use the slogan “Keep Austin Weird”–enclave along the Colorado River is liberal, laid back, and welcoming. So the last thing you’ll want to do is stay in a generic chain hotel. Luckily, there are three hotels that perfectly capture Austin’s independent spirit.

Photo: Heywood Hotel

The city’s newest boutique hotel is the Heywood Hotel, located in up-and-coming East Austin. And it’s next door to a funeral home. But don’t let that stop you. The hotel’s seven rooms have pine floors, internet radio, and local beer in the mini bar. French press coffee, freshly baked cookies, and bikes are available. Zelda, the community hen, may wander through the property. Borrow beach towels and head to Barton Springs. Grab breakfast tacos at the food truck down the street. Sip a rattlesnake or a suffering bastard at Weather Up. Plus you’re within walking distance of 6th Street.

Photo: Hotel San Jose

In the hip SoCo neighborhood, Hotel San Jose is a funky hangout a few blocks from Lady Bird Lake. The dog-friendly bungalows have concrete floors, kimono bathrobes, and bottled rainwater. A DJ spins old records in the lounge, where you can enjoy a Shiner Bock or a glass of Rioja with a cheese and salami plate. Across the parking lot, Jo’s offers Cuvee Coffee and pulled pork sandwiches. And the shops, restaurants, and clubs on South Congress Ave are just steps away. Botticelli’s for rustic Italian food. Amy’s Ice Cream for hot fudge sundaes. The legendary Continental Club for live music.

Photo: Kimber Modern

Just a few blocks away, you’ll find the smaller, quieter Kimber Modern. The design hotel’s minimal rooms have platform beds and lots of natural light. Local artwork, Eames furniture, and egg chairs fill the common room. Bagels and freshly squeezed juice are offered here in the morning, and later, you’ll find wine, beer, and snacks. Look for hidden treasures at Uncommon Objects. Try on cowboy boots at Allens Boots. Eat a bison burger and truffle fries at Hopdoddy Burger Bar. And then grab a chilled glass of white wine at the hotel and head out to the courtyard, a treehouse-like deck surrounded by Texas live oaks.

You’ll feel right at home at whichever hotel you select. Just don’t forget to make an appearance at that festival that lured you here in the first place.

Charleston, South Carolina

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With a handful of long weekends approaching, it’s time to make some travel plans. Craving a little Southern hospitality? You probably remember Charleston for its antebellum mansions, overly polite people, and hearty seafood. Well, the architecture is being restored and the restaurant scene is exploding. And the people do continue to have impeccable manners, but since when is that a bad thing? So it might be time to explore South Carolina’s oldest city again.

Photo: Zero George Street

First, move into Zero George Street, your Charleston home. Really, it will feel like home. Three historic buildings, plus two additional carriage houses, have been turned into studios and suites with heart pine floors. Wicker and wrought-iron furniture fill the piazzas, where breakfast is served. Ceiling fans and sea breezes will cool you down later in the afternoon, as you sip rose and nibble on cheese before your dinner reservation. The hotel is only a few oak-lined blocks away from Liberty Square, the Battery, and East Bay Street. You’re in the middle of everything.

After breakfast, start your morning at Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired, before it starts getting humid. Take a carriage ride through Rainbow Row, the 18th century line of stately houses. The scent of jasmine seeps from the overflowing gardens. And elbow your way through the Charleston Farmers Market in Marion Square. Your mouth will start to water. It’s time to eat. Virginia’s on King serves classic Southern comfort food: fried chicken or shrimp and grits. Or Amen Street Fish & Raw Bar offers oysters from all over North America.

Walk off lunch along the Battery’s promenade, the art galleries of the French Quarter, or the shops on upper King Street. Visit the Charleston Museum, the Footlight Players, and the Dock Street Theatre. Watch guys playing a trumpet and a saxophone jam on the sidewalk. Sip a harbor breeze at the rooftop Pavilion Bar. Or better yet, on a sunset cruise around the harbor. Dinner will be your hardest decision of the day, but all of your choices focus on fresh, local, Southern cuisine. Soft shell crabs and Riesling on tap at FIG. All ingredients sourced below the Mason-Dixon line–including amazing cornbread–at Husk. Or go all out with the tasting menu and pre-Prohibition cocktails at McCrady’s. It’s so hard deciding where to go. Good thing you’re here for a long weekend.

Minneapolis, Minnesota

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It’s finally stopped snowing in the Midwest. For real this time. Hopefully. That mean peonies and Russian sage are starting to grow, the Twins are playing barely above .500 baseball, and the people who live in Minneapolis are starting to thaw out. It’s also the time of year when the city’s Skyway is abandoned. Everyone wants to be outside. Especially by the glittering water.

Photo: © Calamityjohn | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Known as the City of Lakes, Minneapolis has 22 of them just within the city limits. Take sailing lessons on Lake Calhoun. Stop at The Tin Fish for walleye tacos and homemade lemonade. Canoe or kayak on Lake Nokomis. Spread out on one of Cedar Lake’s beaches. Climb the trees around Lake of the Isles. Or grab an ice cream cone and a blanket, and head to the bandshell at Lake Harriet. Need a little more shade? Hike through nearby Fort Snelling State Park. Or, if you’re in need of air conditioning, check out the Asian collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts or more contemporary pieces at the Walker Art Center.

For an elegant dinner, make reservations for the five-or-eight course dinner at La Belle Vie. For a more casual meal, head to Spoonriver. Start with an elderflower martini or a Mill City fizz. The accommodating kitchen uses locally sourced, sustainable products. Not that you’ll care once you bite into the Moroccan-spiced Spoon burger. And the restaurant is across from the renowned Guthrie Theater, which overlooks the Mississippi River. The Guthrie is the heart of the theater district, in a city with so many theaters it’s called the Mini-Apple. Whether you’re looking for Broadway shows, Shakespeare, or experimental performances, Minneapolis has it all. Plus a great live music scene. See up-and-coming bands at 7th Street Entry or jazz at the Dakota Jazz Club. As you sip a Dakota Cup, you’ll almost feel as though you’re in New York City. Almost.

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

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So you’ve been all over the Caribbean, huh? Nassau in the Bahamas. Samana in the Dominican Republic. Montego Bay in Jamaica. Sorry, cruise ship ports don’t really count. Especially if your island time was spent at duty-free shops and American fast food restaurants. It’s time to ditch the massive ship and hoards of people. It’s time to see the real Caribbean.

Photo: © Justintroupe | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Head to the peaceful, quiet island of St. John, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. There isn’t an airport on the island, so a boat is your only option. After landing on St. Thomas, and passing by Charlotte Amalie’s mall-like cruise port, head to Red Hook to catch the hourly ferry. It’s a quick trip–you can see St. John from St. Thomas. The views from the water–of crescent-shaped lagoons and white-sand beaches–are a great introduction to the small island.

You’ll arrive at Cruz Bay, St. John’s largest city. Make that largest town. Open-air taxis await arrivals. Small shops and restaurants fill a few streets. Stop at Jake’s for breakfast–any time of the day–and a harbor view. Or Joe’s Rum Hut for a Virgin Islands Mango Pale Ale. You’re on vacation, after all. Grab picnic supplies at Starfish Market. And then head out of town. The best beaches are on the north shore. Caneel Bay. Hawksnest Bay. Trunk Bay. Cinnamon Bay. It’ll be difficult to pick a favorite. Swim with parrotfish, groupers, and sea turtles. Snorkel the underwater trail. Try to find Honeymoon Beach–it’s only accessible by foot or boat.

Photo: © Nyphotoboy | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

And finally get out of the turquoise water at Francis Bay to start hiking the trails of Virgin Islands National Park. Thanks to Laurance S. Rockefeller, more than 60 percent of the island is protected, ensuring the land will never be developed. Eventually you’ll reach the ruins of Annaberg Plantation, which produced sugar. Tour the remains of the stone-and-coral slave quarters and the windmill. Don’t miss the views of Jost Van Dyke and Tortola before heading down to Miss Lucy’s, outside of Coral Bay, for dinner on the beach. Ignore the chickens and the goats roaming around. If it’s a full moon, there will be a party with roasted suckling pig. Otherwise, eat conch chowder, Miss Lucy’s famous paella, and a side of okra fungi.

As you order another round of drinks, you’ll notice a huge cruise ship lit up as it departs from St. Thomas in the distance. And, for the first time, you’ll be glad you aren’t on it.

Travel Cravings

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Category Archives: United States

Kauai, Hawaii

Louisville, Kentucky

Glacier National Park, Montana

Bar Harbor, Maine

Sedona, Arizona

Newport, Rhode Island

Austin, Texas

Charleston, South Carolina

Minneapolis, Minnesota

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

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