Tallinn, Estonia

Photo: © Anitabonita | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

What’s the oldest capital city in Northern Europe? Oslo or Stockholm was probably your guess. But the answer is actually Tallinn, the often forgotten–if ever even known–capital of Estonia. It’s been ruled by, well, everyone. Russia (multiple times), Germany, Sweden, and Denmark each claimed the Medieval town along the Gulf of Finland as their own at one point. But Reval, as it was originally called, was never wrecked by its occupiers. And finally, people began to take notice of this little city–whose population is less than a half a million people–after the Old Town was named a World Heritage Site, and Tallinn became the European Capital of Culture in 2011.

Many people travel to Tallinn by boat. The city is only an hour and a half from Helsinki, Finland, making it an easy day trip. Start exploring the remnants of the city’s walls, the green parks around the walls, the cobblestone streets, and the hidden alleyways. Raekoja plats, a square in the heart of the Old Town, is surrounded by cafes with strong coffee and brightly colored historic buildings. The imposing stone structure in the square, Raekoda, used to be the town hall. It now houses the Tallinn City Museum. Wander a little further to find Riigikogu–the parliament building–and the Museum of Occupations, to see how bad life was under the Soviet and the Nazi regimes.

Grab soup and a panini at Quamquam. Or a glass of white wine at Musi. Classical musical streams from stone churches. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a Russian Orthodox church filled with mosaics. St. Mary’s Cathedral, the city’s oldest church, is now Lutheran, though it was originally Catholic. Buy amber and linens in Viru Square. Or find Nu Nordik for cutting-edge designs. For views of the city, head to Toompea, a limestone hill and the site of a Danish castle. Try to find Schlossle Hotel, your home for the next few days.

Photo: Schlossle Hotel

Schlossle Hotel effortlessly combines the new and the old. The technology is modern, but the Medieval building’s stone walls and wooden beams–plus the additional antique furniture–fit your Old Town surroundings. Have a cigar in the lounge or a bath drawn in your room. And get ready to go out. Tallinn has a growing food scene and an already exciting nightlife. Start with vodka and cavier at Fish & Wine. Have the six-course tasting menu at Restoran O or quail and an impressive bottle of wine at Stenhus. Followed by cocktails on Vertigo 4′s rooftop terrace. And then more vodka at Ice Bar. Tallinn may be old, but no one said it was sleepy.

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Leave a reply

It’s time for a big trip. Not a long trip, when you drive across the United States or explore Southeast Asia for a few weeks. But a big, bucket-list trip. An African safari, hiking in the Himalayas, or sailing to Antarctica. The type of trip you take for your honeymoon, when you’re about to turn 40, or after you retire. Or just because it’s time. You may not be quite ready for the Himalayas or Antarctica–yet–so let’s start with the safari. Destination: Botswana.

Photo: Wilderness Safaris, Chitabe Lediba

Part of what makes this is an epic trip is just getting there. You’ll need to fly into Johannesburg, South Africa, and then take smaller airplanes to Maun, Botswana and the Chitabe airstrip. After a 30-minute drive, you’ll finally reach Chitabe Lediba, a camp in the southeast part of the Okavango Delta. Botswana is one of the least populated countries in the world. The San people still live off of the flat land. After British rule ended in the 1960s, Botswana became one of Africa’s poorest countries. Tourism and an abundance of wildlife have helped to turn it all around though, making Botswana a great success story. But back to the animals.

At Chitabe Lediba, in a high area along the floodplains of the Santantadibe River, days revolve around wildlife sightings. Grab a muffin and a cup of coffee before heading out in open-air vehicles on the morning game drive. It’s chilly now, but it’ll get hot–very hot–within a few hours. Expect to see giraffes and zebras. Leopards stalking impalas. Elephants and lions. And a herd of buffalo. Return to camp for a hearty brunch. From the viewing platforms, search for wild dogs and birds. Vultures and eagles. Hornbills, Greater Honeyguides, and Red-billed Francolins. And later, be on the lookout for hyenas, wildebeests, reedbucks, and more elephants.

Photo: Wilderness Safaris, Chitabe Lediba

You’ll be exhausted and exhilarated at the end of the day. Keep soaking in the view and scanning the horizon for moment from your outdoor shower. Make yourself a drink at the bar and sit by the fire pit before dinner, which is served in the traditional boma. Returning to your tented chalet, sit at the writing desk and try to remember everything you saw today. Sleep will come quickly. And pretty soon, you’ll be dreaming about all the other animals you’ll see on day two of your amazing safari. You’re finally in Africa.

Minneapolis, Minnesota

1 Reply

It’s finally stopped snowing in the Midwest. For real this time. Hopefully. That mean peonies and Russian sage are starting to grow, the Twins are playing barely above .500 baseball, and the people who live in Minneapolis are starting to thaw out. It’s also the time of year when the city’s Skyway is abandoned. Everyone wants to be outside. Especially by the glittering water.

Photo: © Calamityjohn | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Known as the City of Lakes, Minneapolis has 22 of them just within the city limits. Take sailing lessons on Lake Calhoun. Stop at The Tin Fish for walleye tacos and homemade lemonade. Canoe or kayak on Lake Nokomis. Spread out on one of Cedar Lake’s beaches. Climb the trees around Lake of the Isles. Or grab an ice cream cone and a blanket, and head to the bandshell at Lake Harriet. Need a little more shade? Hike through nearby Fort Snelling State Park. Or, if you’re in need of air conditioning, check out the Asian collection at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts or more contemporary pieces at the Walker Art Center.

For an elegant dinner, make reservations for the five-or-eight course dinner at La Belle Vie. For a more casual meal, head to Spoonriver. Start with an elderflower martini or a Mill City fizz. The accommodating kitchen uses locally sourced, sustainable products. Not that you’ll care once you bite into the Moroccan-spiced Spoon burger. And the restaurant is across from the renowned Guthrie Theater, which overlooks the Mississippi River. The Guthrie is the heart of the theater district, in a city with so many theaters it’s called the Mini-Apple. Whether you’re looking for Broadway shows, Shakespeare, or experimental performances, Minneapolis has it all. Plus a great live music scene. See up-and-coming bands at 7th Street Entry or jazz at the Dakota Jazz Club. As you sip a Dakota Cup, you’ll almost feel as though you’re in New York City. Almost.

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

Leave a reply

So you’ve been all over the Caribbean, huh? Nassau in the Bahamas. Samana in the Dominican Republic. Montego Bay in Jamaica. Sorry, cruise ship ports don’t really count. Especially if your island time was spent at duty-free shops and American fast food restaurants. It’s time to ditch the massive ship and hoards of people. It’s time to see the real Caribbean.

Photo:
© Justintroupe | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Head to the peaceful, quiet island of St. John, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. There isn’t an airport on the island, so a boat is your only option. After landing on St. Thomas, and passing by Charlotte Amalie’s mall-like cruise port, head to Red Hook to catch the hourly ferry. It’s a quick trip–you can see St. John from St. Thomas. The views from the water–of crescent-shaped lagoons and white-sand beaches–are a great introduction to the small island.

You’ll arrive at Cruz Bay, St. John’s largest city. Make that largest town. Open-air taxis await arrivals. Small shops and restaurants fill a few streets. Stop at Jake’s for breakfast–any time of the day–and a harbor view. Or Joe’s Rum Hut for a Virgin Islands Mango Pale Ale. You’re on vacation, after all. Grab picnic supplies at Starfish Market. And then head out of town. The best beaches are on the north shore. Caneel Bay. Hawksnest Bay. Trunk Bay. Cinnamon Bay. It’ll be difficult to pick a favorite. Swim with parrotfish, groupers, and sea turtles. Snorkel the underwater trail. Try to find Honeymoon Beach–it’s only accessible by foot or boat.

Photo:
© Nyphotoboy | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

And finally get out of the turquoise water at Francis Bay to start hiking the trails of Virgin Islands National Park. Thanks to Laurance S. Rockefeller, more than 60 percent of the island is protected, ensuring the land will never be developed. Eventually you’ll reach the ruins of Annaberg Plantation, which produced sugar. Tour the remains of the stone-and-coral slave quarters and the windmill. Don’t miss the views of Jost Van Dyke and Tortola before heading down to Miss Lucy’s, outside of Coral Bay, for dinner on the beach. Ignore the chickens and the goats roaming around. If it’s a full moon, there will be a party with roasted suckling pig. Otherwise, eat conch chowder, Miss Lucy’s famous paella, and a side of okra fungi.

As you order another round of drinks, you’ll notice a huge cruise ship lit up as it departs from St. Thomas in the distance. And, for the first time, you’ll be glad you aren’t on it.

Aconcagua Valley, Chile

Leave a reply

So you’ve been slowly checking off the Southern Hemisphere’s wine regions. You drank Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand, Shiraz in Australia, and Pinotage in South Africa. It’s time to add Chile to your ever-growing list. Often overlooked for Argentina, its Malbec-producing neighbor to the east, Chile’s Mediterranean climate–think long, hot growing seasons with cool coastal breezes–makes for ideal grape conditions. Add in dramatic scenery, small vineyards, and tasty vino for a perfect wine escape.

From Santiago, follow the Andean foothills 60 miles north to the Aconcagua Valley. Along the way, you’ll pass fields of peaches, apples, and avocados. The dominating, snow-capped Mount Aconcagua–the tallest mountain in the Americas–is on your right. Vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Merlot, and Petit Verdot on your left. The vineyards are watered by meltwater, which streams down the mountains and into the Aconcagua River. Many come here to ski at Portillo, or hike in La Campana National Park and to the Lake of the Incas. But you’re here for the hearty red wine.

Photo: Viña Errázuriz

Start at Viña Errazuriz. Everyone starts here. It’s one of Chile’s oldest wineries, though you wouldn’t know it from the striking modern architecture. During the two-hour tour, you’ll visit the underground cellars, the gardens, and the vineyards. Taste their Carménère, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon with bread and cheese. And stay for lunch on the patio. Empanadas, lemon chiffon pie, and your favorite glass from the tasting, of course.

Just down the road from Viña Errazuriz, you’ll find Viña von Siebenthal, a boutique winery known for their Bordeaux-style blends that consistently win awards. Taste their Montelig and Carabantes. You may find your favorite Chilean wine here. And then head to hillside Viña San Esteban, where you can tour the winery and hike to see the Inca petroglyphs. End with a three-year vertical tasting of Carménère.

By now you’re supposed to start heading back to Santiago, but you’ve enjoyed the Aconcagua Valley so much that you may need to extend your Chilean wine tour. Chardonnay in the Casablanca Valley? Or stick with the reds in the Maipu Valley?

Kenmare, Ireland

Leave a reply

You’ve been camping before. Once. Between the mosquitoes, sleeping on the ground, and having to eat whatever was squished at the bottom of your backpack, camping was not fun. And that was enough for you. But what about glamping? Tents on an estate, instead of in the middle of a bear’s path. A waterside bistro instead of trying–mostly unsuccessfully–to start a fire. And a real bed instead of a musty sleeping bag. Oh, and it’s in Ireland. Maybe it’s time to give camping one more chance.

Photo: Dromquinna Manor

Dromquinna Manor, located on Kenmare Bay in County Kerry, has spectacular mountain and water views. Their large, sturdy tents were made by safari-tent experts. They have king-sized beds, goose down duvets, and wooden decks. Pick up coffee and fresh croissants at The Shop in the morning. Eat tapas, drink sangria, and listen to Latin American music at the Boathouse Wine Bar and Bistro. Ride bikes or horses. Just breathe in the fresh air. Bathrooms and showers are shared, but at least there are bathrooms and showers.

When you need a little more excitement, no need to hike for miles. Just hop on the water taxi heading to the center of Kenmare, one of the few Irish towns with more restaurants than pubs. Eat seafood chowder at P.F. McCarthy’s. Kenmare mussels at The Lime Tree, a former schoolhouse. Kenmare Bay scallops at Tom Crean. And a rack of lamb at Packie’s. If it’s Wednesday, buy Knockatee cheese, homemade pâté, and smoked trout at the Kenmare Market. Small-batch chocolates at Skelligs. It’s easy to see why Kenmare is such a foodie destination.

Photo: © Malcolmo | Dreamstime Stock Photos & Stock Free Images

Just don’t miss the Bronze Age stone circle, a five-minute walk from the center of town. Or the Ring of Kerry, which either begins or ends in Kenmare. The curvy coastal drive around the Iveragh Peninsula has amazing views of the Beara Peninsula and the Dingle Peninsula on sunny days. Just watch out for the sheep. And on your way back to Dromquinna, stop by Pat Spillane’s Pub for one more pint. Maybe this whole camping thing isn’t too bad after all.

Praslin Island, Seychelles

Leave a reply

Searching for paradise? The kind of place with heart-stopping beaches, dense vegetation, and dinosaur-like creatures? You probably assume that locations like this vanished long ago. Turned into condos and mega resorts. But off the coast of Africa, in the middle of the Indian Ocean, you’ll find the 115 islands of the Seychelles. The islands are filled with national parks that protect flora, birds, reptiles, and marine life that have disappeared elsewhere. Welcome to the modern-day Garden of Eden.

You’ll arrive on Mahé, the main island, but hop on a smaller plane to Praslin Island. It’s a quick 15-minute flight to the Seychelles’ second largest island, which used to be favored by pirates and Arab merchants. Now you can browse local artwork and buy black pearls in Grand’Anse when you land. Or eat grilled octopus with chili, ginger, garlic, and a SeyBrew Lager. All of that can wait until later though. You’re heading inland.

Inland? What about the turquoise water? You’ll get there. But to truly appreciate your remote location, you must start at the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve. Here you’ll find the Coco de Mer, the world’s heaviest nut. It looks like the female pelvis. Hike through the giant palm forest and vanilla trees. Try to spot the Seychelles Bulbul or the elusive Seychelles Black Parrot. You’ll hear the waterfall before you can see it. And try to stop yourself from picking the gorgeous orchids and colorful tropical flowers along the way. After strolling through this magical, but humid, spot, you’ll be ready for a swim. Anse Lazio is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Or try quieter Anse Marie-Louise, near to your home for the next few days, Le Chateau de Feuilles.

Photo: Le Château de Feuilles

The small resort has panoramic views of the Indian Ocean, a mineral-water pool, and a moonlit restaurant that serves organic vegetables, fresh seafood, and champagne. They also have a private island, Grand Soeur, which has two perfect beaches. You’ll be surrounded by pink granite rocks and coconut trees. Hang out with enormous, 100-year-old land turtles. Go snorkeling or scuba diving with sea turtles and brightly colored fish. Have a BBQ lunch of red snapper. And plot how you can avoid getting back on the catamaran at the end of the day.

Travel Cravings

near. far. everywhere in between.

Tallinn, Estonia

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Minneapolis, Minnesota

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

Aconcagua Valley, Chile

Kenmare, Ireland

Praslin Island, Seychelles

Follow “Travel Cravings”