Sitting at a waterfront cafe with fresh seafood and a glass of white wine, you’re watching boats glide into the horseshoe-shaped harbor. The coastline is rugged, and the sea views are breathtaking. Bougainvillea and honeysuckle fill the air. Orange and lemon trees sway in the breeze. You could be in the south of France or a remote Greek island, but this time, it’s Port de Soller on the Spanish island of Majorca.

This Balearic Island may have a bad rap for being overdeveloped with crowded beaches, but the northwest corner–surrounded by the Tramuntana mountains and the Mediterranean Sea–has remained relatively unspoiled. Here you’re more apt to find small medieval villages and sample traditional sobrassada or arroz brut. In Soller, you can find some of Joan Miro’s paintings at the Can Prunera, but more people will probably be enjoying the farmers’ market or the botanical gardens. A tram links Soller to Port de Soller, a quaint fishing village, where everything faces the sea. Lighthouses sit on either side of the bay. Two sandy beaches are lively, but not packed.

On a hillside overlooking the village, the Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa is built into the curves of the coastline, blending in with its natural surroundings. Gorgeous sea and mountain views are, well, everywhere. Relax by the infinity pool. Have a black-pepper-and-macadamia-nut body wrap at the spa. Drink cava at the 360-degree view of the Sunset Lounge Bar. Eat your weight in olives. Go fishing. Or mountain biking. And dream of owning one of the huge yachts in the bay below.