Marie-Galante is the largest island off the main island of Guadeloupe. It’s located 19 miles south of Grand-Terre, in between Guadeloupe and Dominica in the Caribbean Sea. The 61-square-mile island is divided into three communes: Grand-Bourg, Capesterre-de-Marie-Galante, and Saint-Louis. High cliffs line the northern side of the island. Deserted beaches and mangroves run along the Caribbean east coast. A plateau descends to coastal plains and a barrier coral reef on the western coast. While the interior is dotted with sugar plantation ruins and old windmills. This is what Guadeloupe looked like 40 years ago.
After a 45-minute boat ride, you arrive in Saint-Louis on the northern side of the island. Anchored yachts sit in Anse de Mays. A market is set up at the end of the dock. Zouk music flows through the streets. You’ll be back to explore this hip little town, but first, you’re heading south to see the rest of the island.
On the east coast, you run into white-sand beaches and swarms of yellow butterflies. Petite Anse, Les Galets and Anse Feuillard are all deserted. Farther inland, you find ox-drawn carts and the rum distilleries: Bellevue, Bielle, and Poisson. Their aged liquors are some of the Caribbean’s finest rums. While the northern coast is home to a dramatic coastline. Gueule Grand Gouffre is an open chasm in the cliffs. Le Trou à Diable is an underground river. And Les Galleries is a sea-sculpted natural arcade. They’re worth a hike in the hot sun.
After touring the island, you return to Saint-Louis. With time to spare before your departure, you grab a table at Chez Henri along the waterfront. The drinks—freshly squeezed juice with rum—are simple but potent. Everything from the smoked fish to the Creole omelette to the grilled fish with Caribe sauce smells amazing. Sculptures and artwork fill the already crowded space. Plus, a band is starting to play African blues music. Marie-Galante was definitely worth the detour. You’re welcome.