That’s how you ended up on a boat heading toward the Îles des Saintes south of Guadeloupe. The archipelago’s two inhabited islands, plus seven uninhabited islets, are known as the “Pearl of the Antilles.” They’re volcanic, filled with dense forests, and encircled by shallow reefs. They’re worth the extra travel time.
Your destination is Terre-de-Haut, the largest and easternmost of the Îles des Saintes. The island was considered too dry and mountainous when the French first arrived, so slavery and agriculture failed to expand on the island. Normans established picturesque fishing villages instead. One of them, Bourg des Saintes, is ahead of you. Whitewashed houses with red roofs, shuttered windows, and fuchsia bougainvillea are just beyond the pier. Narrow streets lead to the town square, the town hall, and an old stone church. But the little village quickly gives way to the hills.
By the time you start to walk down Le Chameau, it’s getting hot and sticky, as most Caribbean islands do this time of day. Your water bottle is almost empty, but your mind is on other water now, anyway. Turn left at the end of the path, instead of returning to Bourg des Saintes. Anse Crawen is a small beach on the western side of the island. It may be narrow and a little rocky, but it’s also serene and gorgeous. A dog is walking his owner along the edge of the sand. La Redonde, an uninhabited island, sits in the Grand-Îlet Passage. Plus a little snack bar serves ice-cold drinks. You chug your juice, swim in the bath-like water, and enjoy your nearly private beach. Hopefully, you’ll miss the last boat back to Guadeloupe.
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