Smith’s Parish, Bermuda

Photo: The Loren at Pink Beach

Bermuda is an island that has long maintained its traditions. Pastel houses feature slanted stone roofs and gingerbread trim. Afternoon tea begins precisely at 4 pm. Dress codes are strictly enforced, though Bermuda shorts are always an exception. Plus the calendar is dotted with one boat race after another. But a new hotel is starting to shake things up.

It’s been many years since a hotel was built on Bermuda. Old ones have been renovated, some many times over, of course. But new construction is rare on the cramped island. So the announcement that the Loren at Pink Beach was opening earlier this year came as a surprise to many people. The surprises just kept coming.

The Loren at Pink Beach isn’t following the unwritten rules on the island. Sure, the boutique hotel has a prime beachfront location. It sits on a quiet section of Pink Beach in Smith’s Parish on the southern coast. But its all-white buildings—featuring floor-to-ceiling glass windows—look like they belong in Miami. A glass spiral staircase is the focal point in the lobby. The rest of the decor is modern and understated. While the view of the Atlantic Ocean can be seen from the suites, the restaurant, the spa, and, without a doubt, the infinity pool.

Photo: The Loren at Pink Beach

The suites, by the way, are huge on an island known for its small hotel rooms. Silvery accents decorate the bedrooms. Pops of turquoise complement the sky and the water beyond the balconies. There’s both freestanding tubs and walk-in rain showers in the marble bathrooms. Plus flip-flops, which quickly replace your closed-toed shoes for the rest of your stay, are among the rooms’ amenities.

The main restaurant isn’t following the rules either. For better or worse, fine dining on Bermuda has always relied on British recipes. Codfish breakfasts, conch lunches, and spiny lobsters (when in season) served with butter, potatoes, and peas are menu staples. Marée isn’t throwing out the classics, but it’s certainly modernizing them. The ingredients are local and sustainable. The flavors are bolder. The food is delicious. Your four courses on your first night include a compressed watermelon and arugula salad, butter-poached lobster gnocchi, and sourdough-crusted wahoo with a sweet corn purée. A light lemon and olive oil cake completes the meal. It will be hard to convince yourself to go elsewhere tomorrow night.

So you have a new hotel with a modern vibe, stunning views, gorgeous suites, and a restaurant for real foodies. Change has finally come to Bermuda. So don’t you think it’s time to give up your old rule—of favoring hipper Caribbean islands to the south—and plan a trip to this Atlantic island? Rules are meant to be broken after all.


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